It was 9 a.m on the first Saturday in May, and Iron Bar Lane at Virginia Gateway in Gainesville had been transformed by the grand opening of a large outdoor farmers market and is abuzz with about 200 people.
Between two corridors lined with tents, children sample salsa, corn chips and apple cider; parents eye brightly colored fruits and vegetables, and young couples check out pottery, fresh coffee or dog treats.
Around the corner, people of various walks of life line up for artisanal hummus and pita chips, authentic Caribbean food and elevated street food, like empanadas.
The Gainesville Central Farm Market features a curated mix of about 25 vendors selling fresh chicken, pork, fish, dairy, produce, baked goods, prepared foods and flowers, and that was only the beginning.
Gateway owner Federal Realty has booked the market for every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. through Thanksgiving. “Expect live music, chef demos, and family-friendly activities throughout the weekend,” Virginia Gateway announced on its website.
The Founding
In 2008, Marylander Mitchel Berliner and his wife, Debra Moser, founded Central Farm Markets, which operates three other farmers markets in the Washington region.
Berliner, who grew up in Long Island, and is now in his 70s, has been in the food business for most of his career whereas Moser works in real estate.
As Berliner tells the story, he remarked to a vice president of Federal Realty that Bethesda did not have a farmers market, and that maybe the real estate company should start one.
“[She] looked at me and said, ‘That’s a great idea, but we don’t know anything about it; would you do it?’” explained Berliner. “That’s exactly how it got started. I thought this would keep me busy in my golden years.”
The Bethesda market grew quickly. “On a busy day we have 76 vendors,” Berliner said. “It evolved into being the village green over time.”
They opened a second market in North Bethesda and then one in Washington.
Berliner has remained selective of where he plants a market. “I’ve turned down over 20 developers over the last 15 years. I don’t want to be like a chain.”
However, he saw potential in the Gainesville location. “I thought here is something that will give us a presence in Virginia, and it looks like a fabulous location with plenty of parking.”
Community-Minded
Central Farm Markets are more than places to shop. They are places to congregate, relax and enjoy outdoor entertainment. Visitors can eat, enjoy a festive environment and talk face-to-face.
And independent vendors can interact directly with their customers. “Our vendors are like family, and everyone has my cell phone number, and my wife’s phone number,” Berliner said.
Central Farm Markets gives back to the communities it serves. A Haymarket Food Pantry representative said Berliner has dropped off food every week.
“We are super proud of our relationships with nonprofits,” Berliner said. “Over 1 million pounds of fresh foods and vegetables are going to the food bank.”
Having vendors from Virginia, Washington, Maryland, Pennsylvania and West Virginia allows the market to source produce at peak season. “The first strawberries will be from the Northern Neck [of Virginia],” said Berliner, but as the weather gets warmer, they source them from farther north.
Northern Virginia vendors include a mushroom grower from Loudoun County and an artisanal bagel baker from Spotsylvania. Black Stone Honeybee Farms of Broad Run sells honey and goods at a few Central Farm Markets as well as at the Haymarket Farmers Market.
Jessica Tapscott of Warrenton says she frequents a few local markets. “I’m really impressed by [the Gainesville market],” she said while shopping there one Saturday morning. “I really like the food and the variety. I love the fact that I can get lunch and I can get veggies in one spot.”
That same morning, Melanie Kantor drove a distance to find a vendor she follows on social media. “This is my first time at the market. I actually live in Herndon, but I came all the way out because they have a gluten-free bakery.”
Berliner hopes to welcome more local farms and businesses. He has already partnered with the community by joining the Prince William Chamber of Commerce.
A Healthy Lifestyle
Farm market shopping can lead to people living a healthier lifestyle. “The amount of people eating junk is unbelievable,” Berliner said, calling it a “national emergency” that leads to illnesses and disease. “That’s why I run farmers markets and why I shop there.”
His customers often ask him why farmers market food tastes better, and he explains it takes skill to grow highly nutritious delicious food.
“[People] really think you plant it, and you come back and you pick the fruit or vegetables,” said Berliner. “People don’t have a clue what kind of expertise is involved. Pruning a fruit tree is a real skill,” he said, as one example.
Berliner swims laps every morning but mainly credits his diet for keeping him healthy and energetic.
“Every night I eat a big salad – a nice mix,” he said, and said guests ask him, “‘Oh, Mitch, this salad is so good, what did you do?’”
“‘What did I do?’ ‘Nothing.’ I tell them, ‘I went to the farmers market, like you should.’”
Stacy Shaw is an award-winning journalist. She is the editor of Haymarket/Gainesville Lifestyle Magazine and publisher/owner of the local news site BristowBeat.com.
Central Farm Markets is accepting new vendors. For more information, visit centralfarmmarkets.com
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